Showing posts with label Suffolk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Suffolk. Show all posts

Monday, 28 May 2018

Suffolk Secrets (A Suffolk Weekend #2)

A lovely weekend away was exactly what I needed.  The sun was blazing as we drove to Suffolk from London, all the way....all the way until....half a kilometre from Southwold where we were staying.  The town had disappeared in the sea mist......


The beach had gone too....


Luckily we had a fabulous dinner at Sutherland House, one of the oldest buildings in the town.  It is historically linked to the Battle of Sole Bay:

Southwold in May 1672 was known for its pubs and the English sailing fleet was being refitted, providing opportunities for the sailors to try the local ales. They weren't expecting the news that Dutch ships were 2 h away and a battle imminent. James, Duke of York (later became James II) and the Earl of Sandwich were staying in Sutherland House (building dates from 1455; find it in the High Street) which was their headquarters at the time. The Anglo-French fleet set sail with 90 ships and 24 000 men and  5 500 canons. About 2000 men were lost on the Dutch and the English sides - the Earl of Sandwich drowned and the Battle of Sole Bay was inconclusive. For further information about the battle, have a look at the amazingly detailed Wikipedia entry.  For TripAdvisor reviews of the restaurant/rooms click here.
I didn't realise that George Orwell spent a lot of time at Southwold, living with his parents.  Here's a link to further details.


The bunting was out for the royal wedding, seen here by the Swan Hotel.

Gun Hill (Guns donated in the 18th Century)

View of the harbour from Sole Bay Fish Restaurant

Local wildlife:





Minsmere RSPB Reserve:

Orange tip butterly


Holly Blue butterfly


Avocets were extinct from the U.K. for more than 100 years until 1947 when East Anglian marshes were flooded against invasion during the war.  In Minsmere, they are crucial for the survival of marsh harriers and bitterns. It is the emblem of the RSPB thanks to the success of conservation projects. There are now 1 500 breeding pairs in the U.K.



And the pièce de resistance, a bittern! There are fewer than about 200 in the U.K.



And is this a bittern flying?


Redstart:




I love the rabbit watching the sunset in this one:


The 15th Century Church of St. Edmund in the town is always incredible to see, it stands out on the horizon with the huge 100 ft tower.  An earlier 13th Century church was burnt down.  It was built by wealthy wool merchants; for further photos of the church, see here.


The rood screen is very impressive:


East Anglian flintwork:



Beautiful carved angels in the ceiling:


Memo to self:







Southwold Jack - a 15th Century clock jack; symbol of the Adnams brewery, dressed in armour from the War of the Roses.  He has a twin at Blythburgh.


The tallest font in the country:


I love the dawn chorus in Suffolk - in 2000 there were estimated to be 135 breeding bird species as well as many other overwintering visitors,  But there is no peace and quiet - a particular sedge warbler kept me awake 2 nights in a row, singing all through the night. I thought his song was amazing but didn't realise their song is thought to be one of the most complicated - they insert new phrases into each refrain so it is never repeated and are good mimics of other birds.  This one sounded like he was whistling and chirping while on his typewriter - ALL NIGHT.  


Saturday, 20 May 2017

A Suffolk Weekend

I find it's always helpful for the mental state to have something to look forward to. Luckily I was off work the day the WannaCry MalIware virus hit the NHS Trust where I work - believe me, it's not been pretty, so I was glad to have had a break when I arrived back for this last "challenging" week.  Anyway, it's become a bit of an annual treat to go to Southwold in Suffolk around the time of my birthday in May.  I love it because we camp on an unspoilt campsite by the beach which is surrounded by marshes and reedbeds which hold an amazing number and variety of birds. You wake to the sound of the waves and the dawn chorus and very little else.  We normally go between the two May Bank Holidays so the site is relatively quiet. A couple of years ago we got up at an hour I can't bring myself to remember and drove to the RSPB reserve at Minsmere for their dawn chorus walk with one of their managers.  It was fabulous to walk through the reserve before it officially opened for the public and hear about 20 different bird species.

On Friday, after a 5 hour drive from London (don't ask), the sun finally came out for the evening. No expense spared on home comforts.
  

A short walk to the Harbour Inn for a pint of Adnams and a fish supper followed by a stroll along the River Blyth.




Saturday morning we tried the new café which has opened in the perfect spot (i.e. near the campsite) in the harbour.


A trip across the river on the much-loved foot ferry (a rowing boat; £1 each way) and we arrived in Walberswick to visit another much-loved local, Sonia, and she took us for a beautiful walk along Hoist Covert with her dog, Alfie.  Stunning views across the marshes and dunes to the sea.  No sign of the local marsh harrier. Or any bitterns.




We came upon some traditional reed cutters stacking the reeds for roof thatching.  I would have loved take a photo but they had pitchforks and looked busy - didn't want to disturb! 


Back "home" to our private glade for a little siesta.  No chairs but got the important stuff.


The local wildlife isn't bothered.


Kestrel



Swallow



Out to one of our favourite restaurants in Southwold, Sutherland House.


Stopped for drinks on the way home at The Sail Loft.  Great views over the marshes from the back of the pub.


Sunday morning dawn chorus was very early so went for a walk between 5 and 8 a.m. to make the most of the beautiful sunrise over the reedbeds.


This reed warbler was making a LOT of noise.



Not sure what this is, possibly a pipt. Known as LBJ (Little Brown Job).










The Adnams brewery (founded 1872) is based in Southwold. "Southwold Jack", a medieval clock 'smiter' dressed in 15th Century costume is used as a symbol for the brewery (original in St. Edmund's next to the font).


The amazing Grade I listed St. Edmund's Church is a surprise (I've never seen it before even though I've visited the town a few times) hidden round the back of the High St. Built in 1460, funded by wealthy wool merchants. See link (here) for photos of the beautiful interior.


St. Edmund (Edmund the Martyr) was King of East Anglia from approx. 855 to 869.



Walk back to the campsite along the start of the Sandling's Walk, the perfect distance for a stroll between the town and the pub at the harbour.



The tea hut next to the campsite was much needed for a warm-up after putting away the tent in the rain.


The sun came out and time for another cheeky beer before lunch. Cheers!



Another favourite place: Sole Bay Fish Company. Packed full of people buying fish at the counter and enjoying lunch.  Make sure you book!



Strangely enough, there is an article in today's Telegraph talking about walking in Southwold and Walberswick.