Monday 28 May 2018

Suffolk Secrets (A Suffolk Weekend #2)

A lovely weekend away was exactly what I needed.  The sun was blazing as we drove to Suffolk from London, all the way....all the way until....half a kilometre from Southwold where we were staying.  The town had disappeared in the sea mist......


The beach had gone too....


Luckily we had a fabulous dinner at Sutherland House, one of the oldest buildings in the town.  It is historically linked to the Battle of Sole Bay:

Southwold in May 1672 was known for its pubs and the English sailing fleet was being refitted, providing opportunities for the sailors to try the local ales. They weren't expecting the news that Dutch ships were 2 h away and a battle imminent. James, Duke of York (later became James II) and the Earl of Sandwich were staying in Sutherland House (building dates from 1455; find it in the High Street) which was their headquarters at the time. The Anglo-French fleet set sail with 90 ships and 24 000 men and  5 500 canons. About 2000 men were lost on the Dutch and the English sides - the Earl of Sandwich drowned and the Battle of Sole Bay was inconclusive. For further information about the battle, have a look at the amazingly detailed Wikipedia entry.  For TripAdvisor reviews of the restaurant/rooms click here.
I didn't realise that George Orwell spent a lot of time at Southwold, living with his parents.  Here's a link to further details.


The bunting was out for the royal wedding, seen here by the Swan Hotel.

Gun Hill (Guns donated in the 18th Century)

View of the harbour from Sole Bay Fish Restaurant

Local wildlife:





Minsmere RSPB Reserve:

Orange tip butterly


Holly Blue butterfly


Avocets were extinct from the U.K. for more than 100 years until 1947 when East Anglian marshes were flooded against invasion during the war.  In Minsmere, they are crucial for the survival of marsh harriers and bitterns. It is the emblem of the RSPB thanks to the success of conservation projects. There are now 1 500 breeding pairs in the U.K.



And the pièce de resistance, a bittern! There are fewer than about 200 in the U.K.



And is this a bittern flying?


Redstart:




I love the rabbit watching the sunset in this one:


The 15th Century Church of St. Edmund in the town is always incredible to see, it stands out on the horizon with the huge 100 ft tower.  An earlier 13th Century church was burnt down.  It was built by wealthy wool merchants; for further photos of the church, see here.


The rood screen is very impressive:


East Anglian flintwork:



Beautiful carved angels in the ceiling:


Memo to self:







Southwold Jack - a 15th Century clock jack; symbol of the Adnams brewery, dressed in armour from the War of the Roses.  He has a twin at Blythburgh.


The tallest font in the country:


I love the dawn chorus in Suffolk - in 2000 there were estimated to be 135 breeding bird species as well as many other overwintering visitors,  But there is no peace and quiet - a particular sedge warbler kept me awake 2 nights in a row, singing all through the night. I thought his song was amazing but didn't realise their song is thought to be one of the most complicated - they insert new phrases into each refrain so it is never repeated and are good mimics of other birds.  This one sounded like he was whistling and chirping while on his typewriter - ALL NIGHT.  


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